What It’s Like to Spend 5 Days on an Amazon Hammock Boat
- Last Updated:
- By: Peter Orsel
Five days in a hammock on the Amazon River. Watching sunsets and sunrises, pink dolphins along the way, rice and beans multiple times a day and a feeling that the world stands still for a while. This is what it’s like to spend 5 days on an Amazon hammock boat while traveling from Colombia to Brazil.
This is part 2 of my guide to this boat journey. Part 1 covers preparation: flights, the border crossing, tickets and what to pack. This part takes you on board and covers what the five days themselves feel like: the food, the sleep, the stops, and everything in between. If you read Dutch, here’s my personal story about the same trip.
In This Post
At the port
The boat was supposed to leave at 4pm. When I was told to be at the port at 1pm, I assumed it was to secure a good spot on the boat. I ran late and arrived around 1:45pm, but it seemed like I hadn’t missed much. The hall was full of people, and luggage was stacked in rows. The ticket counter checks your ticket and gives you a wristband showing your final destination, so staff know exactly what you paid for.
Vendors walk around selling snacks and other essentials. I considered buying the whole snack tray but ended up with just another bag of crisps to add to my already large collection. After some waiting, a fingerprint check and a document check, it was finally time to board.
Tips for finding the best location on board
I was lucky to meet an Italian and an English guy, and we teamed up to find a good spot together. We were likely the only English-speaking people on board. Staff checked our luggage manually right before boarding, and the English guy claimed a spot next to a big pole on the top deck. Poles are useful for storing luggage against, and these spots are usually near electricity outlets, so you can charge your phone, laptop, e-reader, or whatever you bring.
Do's for finding your spot on the Amazon hammock boat
Stay close to a pole and electricity outlets, go to the top deck as it’s less crowded than the middle deck, claim a bit of extra space if it’s not super busy. It’s easy to re-hang your hammock, if it gets crowded you can give up some of your space.
Don'ts for finding your spot on the Amazon hammock boat
Don’t stay close to the television, the bar, the potable water, the sanitary facilities, the exit and the stairs. This will disturb you way more than you expect. Finding a spot in the middle of the deck is usually the best. Less traffic, more rest.
Once you’re happy with your spot, you claim it by hanging your hammock. This is a straight forward process and the boat is filled with hooks to connect your hammock too. Don’t expect a lot of private space and you might have to sleep above your luggage. It’s common that these boats are packed, which means you have about 40cm space between your hook and the hook of your neighbour.
Our boat wasn’t very packed and there were way more people on the middle deck compared to the top deck, another reason why I’d always pick the top deck. With the top deck, I mean the upper floor. There’s still a roof above your head so you won’t get wet.
Safety on board
I felt safe on board and didn’t worry much about my luggage. There were three of us, and I stored my laptop, camera with extra lenses, drone and phone under my hammock. I didn’t use a padlock, and nothing happened during the journey. Most of the time, one of us stayed near our hammocks, but even during meals I didn’t worry about someone taking my things. That I did it this way doesn’t mean it’s always safe. I’d recommend using a padlock to secure your items.
Try to find another foreign traveller to team up with, or make friends with some Brazilians on board, so you can look out for each other’s belongings. Some people connect their bags around a pole and lock them, so the bags can’t go anywhere without permission.
Can I Buy Snacks on Board an Amazon Hammock Boat?
There’s a small snack corner on the boat where you can buy snacks and more. I didn’t know how much supply there’d be, so I brought as many snacks as I could carry. Some items sold on board: cold drinks, hamburgers, razors, shampoo, toothpaste, candy, and more. Expect to pay a bit more than on land, but it’s good to know there’s supply if you run out.
How Do the included meals on Board Work?
Food is served at fixed times and there’s no changing that. If you’re late, you’ll probably be fasting or surviving on snacks for a few hours. The canteen is on the middle deck, and once the bell rings, it’s time to head there for your food. On our boat, the times were:
Breakfast: 06:30 – 07:30
Lunch: 11:00 – 12:00
Dinner 17:00 – 18:00
Probably not the times you’re used to eat, and that’s why I recommended to bring Tupperware boxes. You can close them and wait an extra hour or two to eat whenever you feel like eating. All meals are served like it’s a school canteen. Someone will ring a bell when the food is ready, you line up and the kitchen staff will fill your plate. If you’re smiling, you’re likely to get a bit more. Been there, done that!
There’s a shared space to eat, and it’s a good place to talk with fellow passengers. Portions are generous, and there’s usually enough for second rounds. One more tip: if you don’t like dry bread, bring something to put on it. I wish I’d brought some jam or Nutella for my bread.
Next to the food, you can get some drinks during the food hours. For lunch and dinner there’s water and lemonade. During breakfast there’s coffee and milk. Don’t expect good coffee, or sugar must be your thing. I’ve never had coffee as sweet as this one and I’ll just leave it with that.
What kind of food do they serve on board of the Amazon Hammock Boat?
To give you a feeling of the kind of food you can expect, here’s what they served us:
Tuesday dinner: Beef soup (best meal of the trip!!)
Wednesday breakfast: Bread, cake and rice pudding with corn
Wednesday lunch: Rice, dry pasta, beans, chicken and a small salad
Wednesday dinner: Rice, dry pasta, leftover beans, beef
Thursday breakfast: Bread, rice pudding and a local fruit
Thursday lunch: Rice, dry pasta, beans, fish and some salad
Thursday dinner: Rice, dry pasta, beans and beef (small candy as a treat!)
Friday breakfast: Bread and rice pudding
Friday lunch: Rice, dry pasta, beans and beef
Friday dinner: Beef soup
Drinking water
There’s no need to bring loads of water on board, as there’s an unlimited amount of drinking water on board. No strange taste and it’s even cold!
Hygiene
After a full day on the boat in the heat, you’ll want a shower. At least I did. Pick your timing carefully. Most people shower after sunset, which affects the water pressure. I tried showering during that peak hour once and wouldn’t recommend it: a strong burst of water for 2 seconds, then nothing for a minute, then a single second of water. It worked out eventually, and during quieter hours you’ll get a proper shower and feel clean afterward.
The showers are cold, but don’t expect a hot shower on an Amazon public boat. I don’t think I’d even have wanted a hot shower in the heat.
The toilets were pretty clean, but could get a bit smelly over time. There was always a good amount of toilet paper available. I brought a spare roll just in case I’d need it, but I brought it the same way off the boat as I brought it on board.
Entertainment on board
There’s a lot of entertainment on board, and I never felt bored during the five-day journey. One thing I didn’t expect: being able to watch the 2022 World Cup on the boat, on huge flatscreens. At night, locals gather to watch Portuguese series or listen to music.
Stops along the way
The stops along the way are their own kind of entertainment. Our boat made about 8 stops between Tabatinga and Manaus, and at every stop new people board, others leave, and there’s a lot of cargo movement. The lower deck is packed with cargo, and it was fascinating to watch the activity at each stop. Most passengers head to the sides of the boat to see what’s happening on the pier. We ended up with more than 2,000 empty water gallons on board at one point (I counted), recyclable waste, some cars, brand new motorbikes, a huge supply of onions, soft drinks, and more.
This area has no paved roads, and the river is still what connects the towns. You won’t find better entertainment than watching that unfold.
My favourite stop was Santo Antônio do Içá. The town was beautiful, we stopped there at sunset, and I flew my drone and took some photos.
Animals during the trip
Something I wondered beforehand: can you see animals while taking the hammock boat on the Amazon River?
During early morning and late afternoon, you have a good chance of spotting dolphins. Pink dolphins are common in the Amazon, though they don’t jump as high as their relatives in the ocean. They swim slowly but show themselves every now and then, so keep your eyes open. They tend to swim in small groups of 2 or 3, and we only saw them at the start and end of the day.
On the last day, some fellow passengers saw an alligator. I missed it myself, but the crew said there are hundreds in that particular stretch of river. I also saw a lot of mosquitoes, though I’m not sure that counts as wildlife spotting.
Sleeping tips
I understand if you’re a bit worried about sleeping in a hammock for three or four nights in a row. I was too, and it turned out to be great.
Watch how the locals sleep: they lie diagonally in their hammocks, which keeps you as flat as possible. There will always be some lights on, and you’ll hear the engine noise all night, so bring an eye mask and earplugs if you’re sensitive to that. I didn’t really notice the sound, and used my towel to block most of the light from the lamps. The only rough night I had was during a storm with lightning and thunder all around us. It lasted over 2 hours and I had a hard time sleeping through it.
The weather
Being in the Amazon means the weather can be unpredictable. We had sunny days, rainy days, and always hot days. Lightning and thunder at night can feel a little overwhelming. The crew know what they’re doing, and it’s not their first storm. If you feel scared, talk to someone, take a short walk on the boat, or remind yourself it’ll be over within the hour.
If you struggle with motion sickness, here’s some reassurance. I suffer from motion sickness myself, and boats aren’t usually my thing. I prefer fast boats since they’re less shaky, but I wasn’t too worried about this trip. You’re cruising the Amazon River, and heading east means you’re always going downstream.
We had one stormy night when the boat got a bit shaky, but being in your hammock reduces the movement: you mostly just end up swinging gently in place. I brought motion sickness tablets but didn’t need them.
Arriving in Manaus
Manaus is a big city, and it’s strange to see so many buildings after five days of cruising in near-total peace. We arrived in Manaus 84 hours after leaving Tabatinga. We were originally due Friday night, but arrived Saturday morning at 5:30am.
Somewhere in the dark before that, the boat also passes the “Meeting of the Waters,” the point where the pale Solimões and the black Rio Negro run side by side without mixing. I knew it was coming, and I still missed it completely: it happened while I was asleep, in the pitch dark, so I’m sorry, you have to take that photo yourself.
If you want to see it for yourself, be ready as you approach Manaus, or plan to see it separately by boat tour once you’re in the city.
After docking, I walked to the hostel I’d booked in advance. I regretted booking that night, since I’d paid for it without getting to use the bed. If I would do this journey again, I would wait with booking something until I arrived in Manaus.
Frequently Asked Questions about the Amazon Hammock Boat trip
I'm vegetarian. Can I still do this boat trip?
Yes, but the food can get boring fast. You’ll mostly eat rice and beans, which are cooked separately from the meat, so you can skip the meat portion at each meal. I’d recommend bringing some backup meals, like hiking meals, and a cheap kettle. There’s electricity on board, so making your own food now and then is realistic.
Should I worry about mosquitoes and malaria?
Mosquitoes weren’t a big issue for me or the friends I met on the boat. I didn’t take malaria pills and neither did they. That said, this isn’t medical advice: check with a doctor or travel clinic about malaria risk for this specific route before you go.
How often do the boats run between Tabatinga and Manaus?
Departures vary by operator. When I travelled, boats left on Tuesdays, Wednesdays, Fridays and Saturdays. Check navegam.com.br for the current schedule before you plan around a specific date. For other departure points along the Amazon, see the Other Popular Amazon Boat Routes section in the preparation guide.
Can I get off the boat at the stops and look around?
No. This is cargo transport, not a tour. You’re not allowed to leave the boat at the stops, and you wouldn’t want to leave your belongings behind anyway. Stops happen at all hours, sometimes in the middle of the night, and rarely last more than 1-2 hours.
If you want to explore a specific town along the route, you’d need to break your journey into separate legs with separate tickets, getting off at one town and catching the next boat a day or two later. I haven’t done this myself, so I can’t tell you what accommodation or onward transport looks like in those smaller towns.
Read about the preparation on this trip
If you read this article, but don’t know how to book it or what to buy in advance, head over to my first part. I explain all the logistics in Leticia and Tabatinga, and tell everything you need to know before taking the Amazon hammock boat.
Share this experience on Pinterest
Other posts about South America
About Me
Peter Orsel is a Dutch travel photographer based in Bali, specialized in drone and landscape photography. He has visited over 40 countries and writes detailed, no-nonsense guides based on firsthand experience.
13 Responses
This and the other part are fantastic. Thanks Peter – great info. Keep it up and good luck on the nomad journey
Thanks a lot man, really appreciate the words! One of the best travel experiences ever. 🙂
Hey I just did this trip and found your guide super useful; thanks! We arrived after just four days and three nights and it was a super memorably experience, I loved it. Some people I knew were continuing to Belem but I think that was enough boat for me!
The only small thing I’d mention to add is that there are several ports in Tabatinga and my tuktuk driver took me to the wrong one, which resulted in a 30 min walk in the heat trying to get directions in garbled Portuguese which was a bit tricky. It might be worth adding that the boat to Manaus has its own port area (I think the company is called Viagens de Sol) and that it’s just past the military marine base – not the area where the local boats depart.
Hi Tom, thanks so much! I can imagine that’s not the best situation to get in. Didn’t know until now that there was another port, so will add it to the blog. Hope you had an amazing journey and thanks for sharing with me!
Hey, this is such an amazing informative guide- exactly what I’ve been looking for! Thank you so much!
One question: Me and my friend want to do this trip but we are both vegetarian, meaning no fish no meat… Do you think it would be possible, with the food they serve on board? Thank you!
Hey, appreciate your comment. Thank you so much! I’m excited for you guys. Of course it’s possible, but the food can get very very boring. You’ll eat rice and beans every day. They cook it separately and you just receive your portions in buffet style, so you can reject the meat. I’d recommend to bring some back up meals on board. For example, bring these hiking meals and buy a cheap kettle before departure, so you can make your own food. Can’t be that expensive and there’s electricity on board!
Hi! I’m thinking of doing this in a few months. What about the mosquitos? A friend, who lives in Manaus, is warning me that I may get malaria. How did you deal with the mosquitos?
Also, is there a boat leaving every day? Or is it like once a week?
Hi Jamile, great plans! I think I’ve seen your email and replied to that. Mosquitoes aren’t the biggest issue, didn’t take malaria pills and neither did my friends I met on the boat. Hope you have a great trip!
Hi, do you have any idear how often the boats gets from tabatinga to manaus?
Hi! I have no clue to be honest. I do know this page: http://www.navegam.com.br and https://www.instagram.com/navegacao.reismonteiro/ this Instagram page have information about the current departures! Have fun planning your trip!
Hi Peter,
thanks for all the helpful recommendations. One question fgor me is open: While the different stops, have you been able to step of the boat, walk araound a bit and discover the small towns?!? How long do they usually stopp? Thank you sooo much. BR Corinna
Hi Corinna, thanks for your message! As it’s cargo transport, there is no time to discover the small towns. You’re also not allowed to leave the boat and you don’t want to leave your belongings behind. The stops are sometimes in the middle of the night, sometimes during the day and won’t take much longer than 1-2 hours.
I have no idea whether the towns have accommodations et cetera, but if you’re truly up for an adventure, you could break up your journey in two or three parts, where you get off a certain town and take the next boat one or two days later with a seperate ticket. However, I can’t advice anything as i didn’t do this myself.
Hi Peter,
Many thanks for your blog which was a wonderful trip down a 48 year memory lane!! Yes, I did it from Leticia to Manaus in 1978 and travelled ‘first class’, which meant they provided the hammock and it was on the top deck, so I got natural light & fresh air …. but I don’t recall the meals, so suspect they were as ordinary as yours!! Or maybe I had to supply my own food?
One of the most vivid memories for me was watching the ‘wharf’ labourers loading huge, massively heavy cocoons of latex rubber at each ‘port’. They had to navigate a narrow plank from the river bank to the boat, with the latex slung over their shoulder/back. Their backs & legs were permanently bowed by the weight, as evidenced when they returned down the plank to the shore.
I also recollect the growing heat & humidity each day until 4/4.30pm when, almost like clockwork, the rain would dump down and clear the air. Sadly I suspect this rhythm has gone the way of many other natural rhythms with climate change.
I do have an additional medical alert, however.
Sadly I’ve been precluded from donating blood since my various excusions as some viruses, such as Chagas disease, can lie dormant in us for decades. While this has caused me considerable disappointment over the decades now, at 75 years, it has complicated the diagnosis of certain illnesses.
So my strong advice, wherever you travel rough in developing countries is:
1. Seek professional medical advice from an expert in your destination, prior to departure. By this I mean not only the standard injections you need, but also what insects/viruses may lie dormant and potentially cause illness in the long term or have consequences like life long exclusion from giving blood; and
2. Throughout the rest of your life, if you get sick and hospital doctors are scratching their heads for a diagnosis, take the initiative to advise them of your rich & exciting travels … as good virologists will send you off for some exotic tests & scans which may come up with a solution. I’ve been through this during 2025 and discovered I have antibodies to some interesting viruses I’d obviously had on my past travels but, being young & healthy, had fought off without realising.
Enjoy the rest of your travels …. and never waste your money on ‘5 stars’, as they’re identical & equally boring in every country and the people you meet are equally similar & boring!!
And your blogs would also be boring!!
Thanks again,
Jeannette (West Australia)