How to visit Lagunas Escondidas de Baltinache in the Atacama Desert, Chile
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- By: Peter Orsel
Out of the many activities you can choose from in San Pedro de Atacama, the Lagunas Escondidas de Baltinache (Hidden Lagoons of Baltinache) are a must visit.
In this post I’ll tell you everything you need to know about visiting the hidden lagoons of Baltinache by yourself. If you want to know how to get to San Pedro and how to get around once you’re there, head over to this blog post.
Important note: swimming rules at Baltinache change often. One lagoon is currently open for floating, and this can be restricted again with little notice for environmental reasons. Drone flying is not allowed anymore.
In This Post
How to prepare for visiting the Baltinache Lagoons
It’s important to have a car for visiting the Baltinache lagoons by yourself. A 4×4 is more than a comfort choice. The dirt road to the lagoons is where most rental car trouble happens in this area. I rented a 2WD myself, and made it there safely. However, some parts made me lose my grip. I’m an experienced driver, so I did not have any problems in the end. If you’re less confident behind the wheel on loose gravel, go for a 4×4 instead, flat tires are common on this road and a handful of visitors have gotten seriously stuck after a puncture. You’ll see the tires on the side of the road, and you don’t want to be the next one.
Downloading Offline Maps
Before you leave San Pedro, download offline maps if you haven’t already. I recommend Google Maps or Maps.Me. Both apps let you navigate offline, and that’s essential once you’re on the dirt road, since mobile coverage disappears fast. Highlight the spots you want to visit, and make sure you include Lagunas Escondidas de Baltinache. There’s another Google Maps pin called Laguna Baltinache, and that’s the wrong one. Use the link above instead.
Bring Water and Snacks
The last thing to arrange before departure is stocking up on water and food for the lagoons themselves. There are no food options along the dirt road and no restaurant at the salt lagoons. Bring salty snacks and soft drinks too. We brought empanadas and about 10 liters of water for four people, and honestly, I’d bring more next time. I’ll explain why later in this post. One more thing: don’t apply sunscreen before you plan to float, since it contaminates the water.
What's the best time to visit the Baltinache Salt Lagoons?
Most tours leave in the early morning, so to avoid them I’d recommend arriving late morning or early afternoon instead. Avoiding the tour groups gives you more privacy and a better experience. We arrived around 1:30pm, right as a tour group left and about two other groups of independent travellers were around, brave enough to tackle the dirt road themselves.
Keep in mind there’s usually a lunch break at the lagoons, between 12:30pm and 1:30pm, during which you can’t enter but can still leave.
How to get to Lagunas Escondidas de Baltinache
Getting to Lagunas Escondidas de Baltinache is very straightforward, but it takes time, patience, and a 40 to 45km dirt road road. A lot of people get stuck here with flat tires, and you’ll see several of them along the way. I
f you’re driving by yourself and get stuck in the middle, walk to find help, or wait until someone’s ready to help you out. Don’t let that scare you, it’s part of the adventure. That said, take it seriously: check your rental car’s tires carefully before you leave, and consider lowering tire pressure slightly for better grip on the gravel.
You’ll find yourself driving on the left and right side of the road, just to find the best tracks. Don’t be afraid for people coming from the other direction or people overtaking you. We only saw 5 other cars on our full day trip.
Once you arrive, the crew at the entrance will explain the rules, most likely in Spanish, and tell you what to do and what not to do. Officially, you’re supposed to register for your visit in advance. In practice this system isn’t fully up and running yet, so most visitors simply pay and enter at the gate without a prior reservation.
Facilities at the Baltinache Lagoons
There are toilets and changing rooms at the entrance building, but don’t expect much more than that, showers aren’t reliably available so bring extra water to rinse off (more on that further down).
What if I can't drive there by myself?
No problem. If you can’t drive, don’t have a car, or don’t feel comfortable on the dirt road, you can book a tour instead. GetYourGuide offers packages to the salt lagoons. You can use these links to book either the Lagunas Escondidas de Baltinache tour, or go to the Cejar lagoon instead. I’d recommend the first one.
How much does it cost to visit the Baltinache Salt Lagoons?
The entrance fee is around 12.000 Chilean Pesos per person, about €12 or $13 USD. You can pay by card or cash, but the card terminal isn’t always functioning well, so make sure you bring some cash. If you book a tour, your entrance fee is not included yet and you pay this to your tour guide.
Floating in the Lagoons
The experience I share below is from December 2022, when swimming was allowed in the lagoons. Since then, the rules have gone back and forth more than once. As of now, one lagoon is open for floating, but this changes without much warning. Check the latest Google Reviews, sorted by “Newest”. This is the best way to know the current status. If you book a tour, ask the tour operators.
There are 7 lagoons in total, connected by wooden bridges. There’s a picnic zone nearby to eat your snacks. Bring some face covering, sunglasses, and clothes or towels to cover your body, since the sun is strong and there’s barely any shade.
As mentioned, don’t apply sunscreen before you enter the water. Walk in carefully, since the edges are sharp. Don’t jump in, you don’t want salty water in your face. Once you’re able to lay down, you’ll feel the reason you drove all this way. Because of the salinity, it’s best not to stay in the water for more than 15 to 20 minutes.
Getting out works the same way as getting in. Go slow, watch for the sharp edges, and grab your sandals or shoes. As soon as you get out, you’ll see the result of your salt bath. The salt sticks to your body, everywhere.
Preparing for the way back
Before you drive back, you’ll want to wash off all the salt. Here’s the problem: water is scarce this far out, and you get very limited shower time. During our time, the showers were out of order, but they seem to be functioning well right now.
It’s smart to bring extra liters of water to rinse off before you drive back. You really don’t want salt all over your body for the drive home. Once you’ve rinsed off, put sunscreen back on before continuing under the bright sun.
What if I don't want to drive this far?
If the dirt road isn’t for you but you still want to drive yourself, consider Cejar Lagoon instead. It’s more expensive (30.000 pesos for a swim, around $35), and easier to reach. It’s also more crowded, and the water is said to be less blue than at Baltinache. It’s still worth seeing, and it’s a reasonable option if you’d rather skip the gravel road. I haven’t visited Cejar Lagoon myself, but from what other travelers report, it’s a solid alternative. You can also book a tour through GetYourGuide.Another option is to book a tour through GetYourGuide.
Extra stop: The Magic Bus of San Pedro de Atacama
If you have energy left, head to the Magic Bus for sunset. It’s an abandoned bus located close to the main road towards San Pedro de Atacama. Once you have about 8km left until the main road (coming from the lagoons), turn right and continue for 7km to reach the bus.
I went at sunset and arrived at the same time as about three touring vans and a couple of tourist cars, which took away a little from the experience. Still, the surroundings are worth it on their own, you don’t have to fix your eyes on just the bus. In the end, though, that’s what most people come for.
If you want the spot to yourself, go for sunrise instead.
How to get to the Magic Bus?
Getting there is tricky, since you’ll need the dirt road again. The road condition is rough, so if you’re not confident behind the wheel, it might be better to skip it. If you decide to go, download Maps.Me, save the offline map, and navigate with that app. Google Maps will send you the wrong way and drop you at an entrance point of Valle de la Luna that’s permanently closed. Been there, done that. Download Maps.Me and you’ll be fine.
💵 Entrance fee: None
📍 Google Maps Location: Doesn’t work. Use Maps.Me and search for Magic Bus.
Frequently asked questions
Can you still swim in the Baltinache Lagoons?
One lagoon is generally kept open for floating, but the rule has changed multiple times over the past few years. Check recent Google Reviews or ask your tour guide before your visit to confirm the current status.
Is visiting Lagunas Escondidas de Baltinache worth it?
Yes, as long as you can swim there. The salt content and color of the water are different from most other lagoons in the Atacama, and it’s quieter than Cejar. The drive is a stretch, 59km with 45km on dirt road, and the swim rules change often enough that you can’t count on floating on the day you visit. If swimming will be restricted again, I don’t think visiting Baltinache is still worth it. It’s too far for just a photo stop.
How many lagoons are there at Baltinache?
Seven. They’re connected by a boardwalk, though only one is open for swimming at any given time.
Do I need a 4x4 to visit?
It’s not strictly required, some travelers make it in a 2WD SUV, but flat tires are common on the dirt road, and a proper 4×4 gives you more of a safety margin.
How far is Baltinache from San Pedro de Atacama?
It’s 59km from San Pedro one way, close to an hour’s drive, with the last 45km on unpaved road.
Is it worth doing a tour instead of driving yourself?
If you don’t have a car, don’t feel confident on the dirt road, or you’re traveling solo, a tour makes sense. If you’re driving with a group and comfortable with gravel roads, self-driving is cheaper and lets you set your own pace.
For more recommendations and photography spots around San Pedro de Atacama, check out this post. Still preparing you trip? Start with my Travel Guide for San Pedro de Atacama instead.
If you have any questions regarding this article, advices or something that’s missing, please let me know by leaving a comment!
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