The Story of Emberá Tribes in Medellín
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- By: Peter Orsel
During a free walking tour in Medellín, Colombia, we encountered some beautifully dressed ladies, but living in poor conditions on the streets. My tour guide was touched by their situation, and after the tour, she said she would visit them again. I decided to join her, and thanks to that, the Embera tribes will have a special place in my heart forever.
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I found that so intriguing. This tour guide walks the streets every day, seeing countless people begging for money, yet she decided to go back and see if there was any way she could help them.
The free walking tour was the Downtown Walking Tour with Real City Tours. This is non-sponsored, but I’m gladly promoting as it was one of the best free walking tours I did in my life. If you want more general tips for the city itself, I wrote a separate guide on the best things to do in Medellín.
Who are the Emberás?
The Embera tribes in Colombia are indigenous people who traditionally live in the jungles of the Chocó region, maintaining a self-sufficient lifestyle. Emberas speak their own dialect and get all their resources from the jungle. Their handcrafts are beautiful and their culture is very intriguing.
Despite this, many Embera have been forced to flee their hometowns due to the armed conflict in Chocó. With all they can take and little to no money, they find refuge in cities where it’s hard for them to adapt. Medellín receives more displaced Embera than almost anywhere else in Colombia, mostly because of how close it sits to Chocó.
Meeting the Emberas of Medellin
When the tour finished and we walked back to the ladies, they shared their heartbreaking story with us. These ladies had just escaped from the jungle because armed groups had invaded their territories, giving them no choice but to leave immediately. When we encountered them, they had lived on the streets for two days, not having proper rest.
These people used the final money they had to buy bus tickets and headed to the city. They arrived with nothing, no money and no food, but they had their babies and children to take care of. It was devastating to hear that two of the ladies had lost their husbands in the attacks, and we could see the desperation in their eyes.
We bought some first needs and spent some time with them. After that, I asked if I could take some photos as I wanted to share their story. I wanted to give them a voice.
Visiting Casa Embera
After we left, my tour guide gave me the contact details of Beth and Travis, an American missionary couple. They moved to Colombia to assist the Embera tribes in their reintegration into the city. Many of them are unable to return to the jungle, so Beth and Travis support them through crafts and education for their children. They invited me to visit Casa Embera, where they take care of the children and engage in jewellery crafting.
I was amazed by the impact Beth and Travis are making. They made the decision to leave their American lives behind and serve in Colombia. After living in the Amazon region, they have now established themselves in the city. Their care house is located in a dangerous neighbourhood in Medellin, but they walk around fearlessly, sharing jokes in slang with the locals.
Every weekday, children from the Embera tribes gather at their house. They receive lessons on the Spanish language, hygiene, and food, and for those who are interested, also about God. Why God? Beth and Travis are Christian missionaries, and their own faith is what drives them to do this work. It’s not something they require from the families they help. Whoever needs support gets it, whether or not they’re interested in the religious side of it.
A reader once pointed out that pairing this kind of help with religion can feel uncomfortable, given the history of missionary work in indigenous communities elsewhere. I get that concern. What I saw here was closer to two people acting on their own conviction, not an institution imposing beliefs on people who had no other option.
Before the children arrive, we visited some families at their homes. It was confronting to witness the living conditions in these houses. Families of five living in a cramped four-square-meter space, with only two thin mattresses on the ground. We spent time with them, provided them with food, and I had the opportunity to learn more about their way of life.
Volunteering
Right after we came back to Casa Embera, the children arrived. From the moment I met them, they had my heart. The regular volunteer couldn’t make it that day, so I stepped in to assist wherever I could. We played outside, I helped them with their food and we generally just had a lot of fun. Additionally, I took photos to support their marketing campaigns and to raise more funds for this project.
These were undoubtedly the best days of my entire time in Colombia. It’s incredible to see what Beth and Travis, driven by their own faith, are able to do for these families. Even though my contribution may have been small, it’s a story that will remain in my heart for a lifetime.
One final encounter
On my last day in Medellín, I went to the city to buy some supplies for my next destination in Colombia. It was around the area where I met the ladies on the street. I felt that someone was looking at me or trying to get eye contact. When I searched through the crowds, I recognised two ladies from my first encounter.
I approached them, and they were selling bracelets on the streets. They looked way better than before, clean and well rested, with a different look in their eyes than the first time we met. All because Travis and Beth and their team were able to help them with their basic needs since they arrived.
I asked them if I could do something for them, and they asked for some specific groceries. My backpacker budget said no, but my heart said yes and so I went to buy some final needs for them.
They were eternally grateful. In exchange they gave me a colourful bracelet for free, one I’ve been proudly wearing for two years now.
Learn more about Casa Embera
If you want to learn more about Casa Embera or the Embera Bead Project, visit these websites:
Embera Bead Project
Buy bracelets and other crafts to support the living conditions of Embera tribes relocated in the city.
Casa Embera
Read more about the care house and seek for opportunities to support the amazing organisation.
More adventures in South America
About Me
Peter Orsel is a Dutch travel photographer based in Bali, specialized in drone and landscape photography. He has visited over 40 countries and writes detailed, no-nonsense guides based on firsthand experience.
4 Responses
Hi Peter,
I’ve found your blog on Leticia to Tabatinga really useful.
I think it’s great people are helping Indigenous peoples. However, given the long history of colonisation and its effects on Indigenous peoples, forcing them to learn about Christianity is really problematic.
White colonisers did the same in Australia and Aboriginal people lost their own traditional beliefs and culture.
No one who is starving should have to learn about Christianity just because they are desperate.
Just something I thought I’d share.
Thanks
Hi Rachael, thanks for your reply. I get your point and maybe I wrote it too pro-Christian as it’s what I believe in. No one is actually being forced to, and it more reflects the heart of the people who take care of the indigenous! It’s totally up to them and they get the help they need whether they’re interested in Christianity or not. Hope that helps and I’ll re-read my post to see whether I can make that more clear. Thanks again! 🙂
A very well written article, thanks Peter. My wife and I also moved from the USA to Medellin 2 years ago. My wife is Colombian. We both live in Belen-Rosales. If that is anywhere near Casa Embera I would like to donate some time and help out if I can. I am a retired software developer and wannabe photographer (lol). feel free to drop me a line if I can help.
Thank you so much!! That’s beautiful. I’ll reach out to you!